Category Archives: Jericoacoara

Posts that relate to travel to Jericoacora, Brazil

Jericoacoara Beach

Today was my last day in Brazil and I knew I was off to a great start as I rolled out of bed and stepped on something… crunchy.  I slowly lifted my foot to observe a cockroach wiggling its legs at me for dear life.  Who doesn’t love tropical paradises and everything that goes with them, seriously?

As it is also my last beach day for awhile although it was cloudy, I still spent it out and around Jericoacoara Beach taking it all in….

I walked out past the giant sand dune, Duna do Por do Sol, which everyone climbs to watch the sunset each evening.

Jericoacoara Beach
Duna do Por do Sol

Then continued on, about three miles out to the west of Jericoacoara Beach to check out if there was anything interesting out that way as I had yet to explore beyond the sand dune.  Along the way I found this dead manta, along with its lungs ripped out another few meters away.  So sad, as I love to see them while diving…

Jericoacoara Beach
Dead Manta on the beach

On the way back I climbed Duna do Por do Sol one last time…

….and then waited for the sun to set.  It was another poor sunset, with clouds on the horizon so the day just faded out into a blue glow as I watched the surfers get their last waves of the day and the capoeiristas again showed off their talents.

Most restaurants open at six, which is perfect as it is right after sunset.  So I headed over to a restaurant I’ve wanted to try in Jericoacoara as well, Freddyssimo.

After discussing the menu options with the lovely owner, I ended up deciding on shrimp in a mango chutney, Moroccan couscous and pineapple juice with mint.  Everything was delicious with some great ethnic flavors that I’ve missed the last few months while in South America.

The owner also told me that they hadn’t had a good rainy season in Jeri for 4 years now , which explained why the Paradise Lagoon was not the beautiful blue I had seen in pictures as it is pretty dried up.

A day in Jericoacora Beach also isn’t complete without some gelato from Gelato & Grano… just what my thighs love, more Gelato!

Jericoacoara Beach
Gelato from Gelato & Grano

While I had a bit too high of expectations for Jericoacoara, especially after spending time on the beautiful beaches of Fernando de Noronha, it still definitely has it’s own style and charm and I’m thankful to have been able to experience another part of Brazil and get off the gringo trail for awhile…

//The I.A.

Lagoa do Paraíso – The Paradise Lagoon

The one thing everyone says you have to do while in Jericoacoara is go stare at a rock in the ocean with a hole in it.  Just kidding, that was yesterday’s activity.  They do recommend however to spend a day at Lagoa do Paraíso (Paradise Lagoon).

As I mentioned yesterday I’ve been sick with a cold, but finally got around to getting out here today.  I took a truck shuttle to the lagoon for $12.50/BRL each way, but many people if traveling in groups had rented dune buggies for $200/day.

It’s a 40 minute rough drive to the Lagoon and we got dropped off at the Alchemist club.  I arrived at 9:20am which was PERFECT because it was empty and still already hot enough outside to enjoy the water and the sun.

So since it was practically empty, I immediately got some shots on the famous hammocks.

If you google image Jericoacoara, the first shots that will come up is Lagoa do Paraíso and its incredible blue water… well… it’s March and the beginning of rainy season and I think the water looked a putrid green.  Had much more beautiful clear blue water in Fernando de Noronha last week.

Random Brazilians weren’t really into taking my picture so they’re odd shots, but hey, you take what you can get and it doesn’t help that I’m not model-material either, so in exhibit A: I salute you, blog reader!

Anyway… hammocks were cool, would probably be great on a sweltering day, but I think there would also be a lot of over-crowding and I’ve read in some reviews of reports of a queue of people also waiting for the hammocks.. so that doesn’t sound too relaxing to me.  Me laying there, enjoying the sun with 10 people just staring at me, waiting to get out? meh.

Here’s a shot of the Alchemist Club from the hammocks at Lagoa do Paraíso.  As you can see, the hammocks are quite far out from shore in at least waist-deep water:

Lagoa do Paraíso
The alchemist club

I also read in some reviews of people talking about 5 restaurants in the area… which I found confusing as the Alchemist club was the only structure I saw around the entire lagoon.  hmmmm….

At the Alchemist club, you could rent a beach umbrella for 10 BRL/hour or sit further up on the beach near the restaurant for free as I understood it in broken portuguese and hand gestures.  They also had a menu with food items, cocktails and fresh juices.

But, it had started to rain a few times while trying to work on my luscious Brazilian tan, so after staying for three hours, I decided to head back to Jericoacora and have lunch there.

I’d been eyeing this item on one restaurant’s menu since I arrived, but it sadly didn’t live up to expectations.  I’m kind of missing Asian food – or any ethnic food for that matter at the moment – … sigh… the things that they can do with a pineapple in Thailand.

Lagoa do Paraíso
Shrimps in Pineapple with white sauce

I’m talking about cooking with pineapple people, not a ping pong show action.  jeez.

Final take on the MUST DO  activity in Jeri?  Lagoa do Paraíso is a nice calm lagoon, perfect for kids to swim around in.  Go early or it will be packed and if the putrid green didn’t kill it for you already, kids screaming and people anxiously “waiting in queue” for your hammock might.

Alchemist beach club is nice, clean and well maintained… not a bad place to waste a day if you have one to spare,

Finally, make sure you have arranged transport back to Jeri or you’ll have to stand around waiting for at least an hour or two for a random truck taxi to pass back through.

//The I.A.

Jericoacoara & Pedra Furada

After leaving the lovely island of Fernando de Noronha, I flew on to Fortaleza where I spent the night at a lovely hostel to catch a bus the next morning to Jericoacoara.  The bus ride is 7 hours in a normal bus and then 40 minutes in a 4WD bus which takes you the rest of the way through the sand dunes:

Luckily, my Jericoacoara accommodation was right across the street.  I’m staying at Myo Tattoo Bar and Posada.  That’s right… in a room attached right to a tattoo parlor.  The temptation is RIGHT there, but if I get another one, I can’t get in the water so it’s not probably going to happen.  Probably.

Jericoacoara is the windsurfing capital of Brazil and being here reminds me of Hood River (sigh)…

pedra furada
Windsurfing in jericoacoara

One of the tourist attractions in Jericoacoara is a rock called Pedra Furada which means Pierced Rock.  You can either take a tour to get there or walk from Jeri.  I obviously walked because I hate tours and I like walking.

The hike took about an hour to get to Pedra Furada and thirty minutes to get back to Jericoacoara, basically because I didn’t know where I was going on my way out there so was rambling through the dunes along the sea-shore, trying to pick out my way.

If you have nothing else to do and like staring at a rock, I’d recommend this activity… but, as you can see, it’s just a rock with a hole in it and I wouldn’t cry too much if you miss it.  I’ve been sick with a cold, so it was just a low-key activity to get my out of my room and enjoying the fresh air.

pedra furada
Jericoacora Beach

Every night everyone hikes up a giant sand dune at the edge of the beach in Jeri to watch the sunset, sunset didn’t look like it was going to be great this evening so I stayed on the beach and watched some men doing Capoeira while I waited.

pedra furada
Capoeira

Capoeira, is a Brazilian martial art that incorporates acrobatics, dancing, music and chanting. It originated during slavery as a way of self-protection and at one point capoeiristas were used as body guards and hit-men before it was prohibited and any one caught practicing or utilizing the techniques would be arrested, tortured and often mutilated by the police.

pedra furada
The Chico Dumar

Jericoacoara is a true beach town with only sand streets.  No pavement for miles… but it adds to the charm and laid back vibe and I dig it.

So this is life at this very moment, drinking fresh squeezed juices like tangerine mixed with ginger, fresh seafood and napping off my cold in the hammock.  There are worse places I could be, such as back at work 😉

//The I.A.